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My favourite little breakfast spot with volcano and fishermen at low tide on a quiet afternoon.

Bali has obviously suffered during the pandemic, with an economy largely based on tourism. Moreover, the dominant source of tourists here is Australia, where lockdowns tended to be severe, all but blocking Australians from travel at all.  The affect is even more profound in more remote areas like the Gili Islands off Lombok. Accessible only by speed boats from Bali, many holiday resorts shuttered. “For Sale” and “For Rent” signs dominate the Island. Meanwhile, the tropics reclaim their landscapes quickly, so even just two years without continual maintenance has brought significant deterioration.

But there are signs of renewal. People clearing the undergrowth and re-establishing businesses, even if they can only afford to partially stock store shelves, or only offer beds, but not the restaurants and bars which complete the resort.

The most interesting aspect of it all? No one is complaining. No one I’ve talked to has blamed governments for their responses to the pandemic. No one has called for the end to restrictions. Perhaps they are too focused on moving forward.